2001 Masi Amarano Mazzano

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WHILE THE VENETO REGION of Italy, which stretches from Lake Garda to the Adriatic coast, enjoys wide renown for its white wines——particularly for its bright Pinot Grigio and creamy Prosecco (the sparkling wine that puts the sparkle in the Bellini, the signature cocktail at Harry’s Bar in Venice)——it is Amarone della Valpolicella, a sumptuous red, that, in the minds of many connoisseurs, serves as the region’s benchmark of quality. Dating back to the time of the Veneti, who settled here under the rule of the Roman Empire, the Veneto’s winemaking traditions include a method of vinification known as appassimento, in which the grapes are handpicked and placed in temperature-moderated and humiditycontrolled drying lofts for approximately 90 days. These lofts contain carefully arranged tiers of wood-framed bamboo mats that cradle the grape bunches as their moisture content is gradually reduced by 35 to 40 percent, concentrating the natural flavors of the fruit before fermentation. This drying technique gives Ama - rone its rich, dense and seductive character, as well as its remarkable ability to age.

Masi Agricola, along with a handful of other producers, has mastered this delicate art. Now under the management of Sandro Boscaini, head of the sixth generation of his family to own this venerable label, Masi not only has produced some of the finest examples of Amarone della Val policella but has also pioneered the production of single-vineyard versions of this lush, dense wine. The first of these was Campolongo di Torbe, the inaugural vintage of which was made in 1958. A second one, Mazzano, was first vinified almost a decade later, in 1967, and the current vintage of this outstanding wine represents Masi at its very best. The carefully handwritten label that graces each bottle of the Masi Amarone Mazzano 2001 ($140) suggests the exacting craftsmanship expressed in the glass.

The Mazzano vineyard is located at high elevation and made up of steep, stone-fortified terraces; as a result, the Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes grown there tend to be smaller and more concentrated than those from lower vineyards with more fertile soils. This intensity shows in the wine’s complex aromas: The nose broods with dark espresso and dried black cherries spiced with a touch of white pepper and dried meat. On the pal - ate, Mazzano displays a remarkable virtuosity, treating the taster to an overture of blackberry, dark chocolate, tobacco and even Worcestershire sauce before effecting a surprisingly graceful and pleasant segue into more subtle flavors of dried chamo mile, dried rose and ripe red apple.

For more information about Masi, visit masi.it.

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